THE FUSE

Anxiety and pessimism about declining alcohol consumption together with a declining interest in wine across all classes and categories has left the wine producers everywhere in disarray. This isn’t something new though the evidence is now become inescapable – and since the inexorability of the trend became clear (once the post-Covid euphoria had passed), it has been a constant refrain in trade publications. So unless you want to read about Elton John’s zero alcohol fizz, you will have to flagellate yourself with the increasingly grim stats.