THE FUSE

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There is basically no kind of breakfast that tops a diner breakfast in my book. I’m from the Northeast and diner culture is big up here. I love all kinds of diners — classics that have been around for decades serving up waffles and omelettes, Greek diners, roadside diners, and new-school diners with menus full of twists on traditional fare. I love it all. When I learned of a storied breakfast recipe that has been served up in San Francisco diners for countless years, I knew I had to try it. I’ve never been to a diner on the west coast, but if this is what they’re slinging, I’m going to need to make a trip. Joe’s Special Scramble is the diner brunch dish of my dreams.

If you’ve ever sat down for breakfast, looked at a menu and been unable to decide between breakfast and lunch, burger or omelette, this is the answer. Joe’s special scramble is a mix of scrambled eggs, seasoned ground beef, mushrooms, and spinach. It’s hearty and filling, but also indulgent. It scratches my itch for something kind of heavy to start my day (or midday, depending) with my want to also eat vegetables. Plop it next to some toast, hash browns, and a pot of strong coffee, and I am in heaven.

This is a dish with a long history and many interpretations. Some recipes call for onions, while others don’t. Some use Worcestershire sauce or hot sauce, or both. This is how I like it.

To make breakfast for four, add a tablespoon of olive oil to a medium skillet and saute about 8 medium-sized sliced crimini or white button mushrooms until well browned. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate.
In the now-empty skillet, cook about 4 ounces of ground beef until browned. Add a pinch of nutmeg and a minced garlic clove or two. Next add a big handful of baby spinach and cook until wilted, which will only take a minute or two.
Add 4 to 6 beaten eggs to the skillet along with the reserved mushrooms. Season with a big pinch of kosher salt and black pepper. Cook until the eggs are fully set. Enjoy!

You can make this just for one. If you’re making breakfast for less than four people, a ratio of 1 ounce of beef per large egg is just the right balance.
Brown the mushrooms first. Mushrooms need room in the pan to brown properly. They just won’t get that same golden brown color and texture if you cook them at the same time as the beef. It’s worth it to cook them first and add them back in with the eggs.
Μake it your way. Add Worcestershire or soy sauce to the beef. Skip the nutmeg. Add hot sauce to the eggs. Sprinkle the whole thing with cheddar cheese (my favorite move). The possibilities are endless.