THE FUSE

I don’t make cupcakes that often, so when I do I want them to be stellar. The thing with cake is … even at its worst it’s still cake, you know? Which can lead one to excuse less-than-perfect recipes because, at the end of the day, it’s still cake. And nobody’s sad about that. On the flip side, when a cake recipe really nails it, it feels like a revelation — like you forgot that cake could be this good. That’s what Smitten Kitchen’s “I Want Chocolate Cake” cake recipe is for me. It’s the recipe I turn to when I want something more than just fine. It’s for when I want a truly outstanding dessert — the kind that can stand up to something from a professional bakery. Plus, the recipe makes just enough batter for 12 equally outstanding cupcakes.