THE FUSE

It is often said that the pub is the UK equivalent of the French bistro, but chef Dara Klein thinks the pub is the British version of the Italian trattoria, the dress-down sibling of the ristorante. Klein has a unique perspective: she was born in Emilia-Romagna, the foodie capital of Italy, but raised in New Zealand, where her parents – pioneers of the Slow Food movement – owned a trattoria in Wellington. Now with her first permanent venture, Tiella in London, Klein is continuing the family legacy, right down to the logo inspired by the pastificio her grandmother ran.