THE FUSE

Wine and food matching has never much interested me beyond the broadest principles. I have vaguely decided, for one example, that for me cheeses tend to go rather better with white wines than red, though I have no problem at all greedily eating them with red, including port. And I remember the moment when I suddenly realised how wonderfully well riesling (dry or off-dry but maybe especially the latter) goes with smoked fish. Mind you, riesling seems to me to go notably well with most foods – I’ve heard that on the Mosel they even swear by sweet Auslese with wild boar.