Cinderella Potatoes (Pommes Cendrillon)

The French know how to transform humble potatoes into the most magically delicious, indulgent side dishes. There’s Dauphinoise potatoes, Chantilly potatoes, and fondant potatoes, to name just a few of my favorites. At the top of my list is pommes Cedrillon, or Cinderella potatoes. Think of them as a fancy, somewhat luxurious take on a twice-baked potato. Of course there’s butter and cream, but instead of being over-the-top and decidedly rich, this skews toward restraint and relies on just enough dairy to hint at decadence and make you want more.

Here, the potato shell (or glass slipper, if you will) is filled with the most outstanding potato purée. But what sets this twice-baked potato apart is that the filling is topped with a pool of savory custard laced with Gruyère cheese. As you fork into the potato, the custard mixes with the purée, creating the most unbelievable potato bite you’ll ever taste.

• The savory custard. Easily the best part of the potato; there’s just enough that you get a little in each bite. Best of all, it’s made by just stirring together three basic ingredients.
• Equal parts fancy and comforting. It doesn’t get more comforting than a creamy potato side. And thanks to chives mixed into the purée and the savory custard, this one feels extra special.

1. Bake the potatoes. Rub the potatoes all over with olive oil, season with salt, and prick each potato several times with a fork. Bake until soft when pierced with a knife.
2. Make the potato filling. Cut off the top 1/4-inch of the potatoes. Scoop out the potato flesh to leave a shell behind. Pass flesh through a ricer or food mill into a saucepan, then stir in heavy cream, butter, kosher salt, black pepper, and chives.
3. Make the custard. Stir more heavy cream, shredded Gruyère cheese, and an egg yolk together.
4. Fill the potatoes. Spoon the potato purée evenly into the potato shells. Use a spoon to make a well lengthwise through the purée in each potato. Spoon the egg mixture evenly into the wells.
5. Bake the potatoes again. Bake until the egg and cheese mixture is mostly set, no longer jiggly, and slightly browned.
6. Brown the top. Broil until the tops are golden-brown.